A Trip to Terezin and Litoměřice

It had been a very busy week for us.  This past weekend, my parents arrived from the Philippines.  Since their arrival,  I found myself caught up with household work and travelling.

Despite meeting them personally for the first time, Jakub immediately became comfortable with his grandparents.

My parents’ first 2 days in Kolin were spent resting and readjusting their body clocks.

We only started our first out of town trip yesterday.  Our first stop:  The Terezin Memorial in the village of Terezin.

Terezin is a former garrison town which was later on turned into a concentration camp by the Nazis.  We visited the Small Fortress with a private tour from a friend, Ms. Rosa Machackova, who is a tour guide in the memorial.

Growing up in Asia, I was not familiar with the names and places of the Nazi concentration camps.  Back then, Europe seemed so far away and I was not very interested in European history.  I remember learning about the Jewish concentration camps only through books and movies.  When I moved to the US, this knowledge did not change.

The visit to Terezin afforded me a whole new experience in viewing the Holocaust.

Walking through the path where those murdered Jews have tread gave me an eerie feeling.

In the main entrance, the inscriptions “Work Frees” (translated from German) is written on top of the gate.

This quarter over here used to house close to a hundred Jews.  It only had one bathroom and one heater.  Imagine living in such small space.

Being a fortress, escape was almost impossible in this place.

It is bordered by gates composed of an inner and outer wall in between a water moat.  Those who have tried and were unsuccessful were punished either through shooting or hanging in this.

But while the inmates were living in squalor, the gestapo lived in these quarters.

They even had their own pool.

The trip to Terezin left me with a heavy heart.  The succeeding trip to the Ghetto museum where it showed the artwork of the children in the camp was even more heartbreaking.

Our next stop for this trip was Litoměřice.

Litoměřice  is a very beautiful city.  It used to be called the “Garden of Bohemia” during the 17th century due to its fertile landscape.  Presently, the gothic and baroque structures surrounding the city are enough to enchant the adventurous tourist.

But for us Filipinos, the significance of this city has historical origins.  This is the city where  Jose Rizal, our national hero, spent some time to write his novels, and also formed a very close friendship with Ferdinand Blumentritt, a Czech national.   Needless to say, it was our first documented contact with Czechs.

When we got there, the goal was to find the Rizal bust, which was built in commemoration of the friendship between Rizal and Blumetritt.

But in the process of looking for the Rizal bust, I was momentarily captivated with this.

We didn’t have enough time to view the whole city, but I know that this will not be the first time I will visit this place.  I will be back.

Despite the long walk and the sultry sunny weather, the trip was very worthwhile.  It is one of the places I can definitely recommend on your visit to the Czech Republic.

More information about the city can be found here.

When In Doubt, I Don’t Open My Mouth

Last week, I had my first salon visit with no special help from a Czech speaking individual.  On my previous visits, I always had some form of assistance – be it from another English speaking salon customer or my husband.  Contrary to his liking, I used to drag my husband to come with me to the salon whenever I needed a hair procedure done.  You can’t blame me.  With my limited Czech, I don’t want to come in for a haircut and come out with a perm.

We are here in Czech for a year now and even though I didn’t get any formal language education, my day to day interaction somehow increased my vocabulary and I can now navigate my way through places and “important ” domestic tasks, like buying bread for instance. 🙂   So, I finally decided to brave it out and set up a salon appointment all by myself.

In setting up my appointment, I initially tried calling one of the salons I found on the internet.   Although their website was in Czech, google translator helped me out and translated it for me.  Because the website can be translated, I immediately thought that maybe they speak English.  When I dialed the salon number, a nice lady from the other line answered the phone in Czech.  After we exchanged pleasantries, I immediately asked:  “Do you speak english?”  To which she flatly replied: “Ne”.  So I was forced to speak Czech.  As I struggled through my Czech, I was not able to make an appointment because according to her, the schedules I wanted were all booked.  Hmmm.  I wondered if I may have misused some words or mixed up the days.  Unfazed and determined to make the appointment, I personally went to the salon to book it myself.  While I was there, she opened her schedule book to skim for vacant slots.  This gave me the opportunity to take a peek and pointed out to her days that are favorable for my schedule.  Alas!  I got a hair appointment.

On the day itself, I was prompt in keeping my scheduled time.  But since I booked very close to their closing time, I was the only customer there.  The lady who did my hair was very nice as she patiently listened to me explain what I wanted with my hair.  I explained it in 3 sentences:  “I am here for a hair appointment.  I need a hair coloring procedure.  Please make sure to cover my gray hairs.”    But to make sure she did not misunderstand what I was saying, she gave me a catalog to pick out a hair color.  After I picked out my choice,  she immediately started working.

Then we both shifted to “mute mode.”  She didn’t start talking nor did I initiate a conversation.  It was the weirdest hour and a half that I’ve ever spent in a salon.

One of the peculiarities that I find among Czechs is that they would rather ignore you than admit that they can’t speak your language.  In Europe, it is a requirement to speak 2 other languages other than your own.    English, being the most common language spoken by foreigners is recently being taught in schools as an elective.  But still, a great majority of Czechs don’t speak English.  My hairdresser was probably one of those that don’t.  Or maybe she was more conscious of her accent that’s why she didn’t talk to me.

On the otherhand, I am normally a very friendly and talkative person.  But I opted not to talk for fear of making a mistake or appearing rude.  I have a penchant for misusing words.  I once interchanged čočka (lentils) with kočka (cat).    I also once went to an optical shop and after the optician said she didn’t speak English, I said “to nevadí” (it doesn’t matter/nevermind).  I was later on told that it is not polite to use “to nevadi”  in that context.  So, I guess it’s better not to use certain lines if  I am not sure how to use it.

Thus, the appointment started with a nod and ended with a smile.

Všechno nejlepší k svátku!

“All the best for your name day!” That’s what the title means.

Here in the Czech Republic, everyday is somebody’s name day.  So technically, Czechs have 2 celebrations of their existence – the day they were born and their name day.   Although name days commonly bear less importance than birthdays, quite a few people still celebrate it.  Based on my research, it is either celebrated by giving flowers and chocolates or if the person is older, by going out with friends and co-workers for beer.

It is interesting to note that in the past, parents were compelled to choose the names of their children based on the name days in the calendar.  Any highly unusual name needs the approval of a “special office” before a child can be baptized or registered using that name.

I don’t have a name day.  If I were Czech, my parents would’ve appealed to that “special office’ to get my name approved.  It is not on the Czech name day calendar.

If  fate was written in the stars, Jakub’s name was written on the sand.  As I was noting down schedules on my Czech calendar this morning, I just realized that today is Jakub’s name day.  I wonder what I’ll do to celebrate it.  I cannot buy him flowers or chocolates nor can I go out for beer with him.

What would you do if I were you?

Reminiscing

In a few weeks, my parents will becoming to the Czech Republic.  Although we talk on skype almost every other week, it has been 3 years since we last saw each other and it will be the first time when they will meet Jakub.

As I am getting anxious about their arrival, I am also reminiscing the good memories we had when they visited us in the US.

This was 3 years ago, when they initially met with my husband’s parents.  Despite the language barrier, everyone became instant friends.

At Sequoia National Park, my dad and my father-in-law explored Tunnel rock together.

But over here at Mono Lake, you can see the geographical differences in their origins.  It was evident in how they responded to ambient temperature.  It was 23C that day.  The Filipinos got cold while the Czechs were complaining of warmth.

But under the warm California sun, everyone felt good the moment we got to Yosemite.

But San Franciso was still cold….even for the Czechs.

This year, it will be a reunion for this team….. with its newest team member.

I can’t wait!

An Eventful Weekend

Despite the scorching heat this past weekend, it was a very eventful one.  On Saturday, friends from Prague and Brno came to visit us.

Picnic at the park

Jakub had a new favorite buddy –  Kuya Mico.

He always likes to play with big boys.

On Sunday, they bonded again because we went to Prague for the FCA dragonboat recreational activity.

While the kids were checking out the boats, we were paddling on the river.

The dragonboat activity exceeded my expectations.  In a scale of 1 to 10 for fun, it was a 10!  I got nervous in the beginning fearing that the boat would capsize because all the paddlers were amateurs.  But we amazingly did well.  Thanks to a great team and wonderful coach –  FCA President Marison Rodriguez.  The Prague Dragonboat Club were gracious enough to let us use their boat and their facilities, and the generous members of FCA brought yummy food, so the bbq portion that followed the activity was equally enjoyable.

With fun activities, good food and good friends, this weekend was one of the best I’ve had here in Czech.

Photos courtesy of Arnel Cueto and Glenn Sanchez

Pruhonice Park: A Romantic Park in Prague

Pruhonice Park is a great place for nature lovers and those looking for romantic walks in Prague.  Located southeast of Prague, the park is approximately 15kms away from the city center.

My favorite spot in the park is the Chateau overlooking the pond.  On a great day, you can almost see its image directly reflected on the pond below it.

We visited this park in March this year and were only able to catch the remnants of winter, but the place itself was already beautiful.  I haven’t been back since but I can already imagine what it looks like now.

There are several species of flowers and trees lining the path and it is arranged in a way that it respects natural terrain but offering nice viewpoints.

As we went further into the park, this is what we saw.

This is just one of those flowers surrounding the whole area.

There is also a botanical garden inside the park but we didn’t visit it during that time because the flowers were not yet in full bloom.

Artificial bridges can also be found at designated spots for easy transfer to key spots areas.  There are marked trails for long and short walks.

Pruhonice Park is definitely one of my favorite places in Prague.  If you are ever in the area, you may want to check it out too.

More information about the park can be found here.

The Festival of The Royal Silvering of Kutná Hora

These past few days, we had nothing but blue skies and bright days.  Summer is indeed here.

This morning, since we didn’t go out of town, my husband and I decided to take a short trip to Kutna Hora, a neighboring town, for a picnic at one of the famous parks there.  Because we didn’t check the event calendar for the park, we ended up running on to the “Festival of the Royal Silvering of Kutna Hora.”

Performers dancing a traditional medieval dance
Young girls dancing as part of a short stage play.

The event was held at the Italian Court, the central mint of the Kingdom of Bohemia and former residence  of the king in the 15th century.

The Italian Court overlooking the Park where the festival was held.

It was an awesome event filled with music, dancing, jousts, and the fictitious arrival of King Wenceslaus and Queen Sofia of Bavaria.

Drummers announcing the arrival of the king and queen.
The knights’ parade
The king and queen arrives.
The king’s court

Being in the event made me feel like I was transported back in time when Kutna Hora was at its prime.  Back then, Kutna Hora was a famous silver mining town which was the second most important town in the kingdom of Bohemia after Prague.  The costumes that were worn signified wealth and prosperity in the town.

One of my favorite parts of the show was a sword fight performed by actors.

Another favorite was the performance of a band that specializes in Medieval music.

It was also fun to watch people dress up for the event.  Kids in costumes always have a soft spot in my heart.

But I wasn’t the only one who was totally entertained.  Guess who were at the front row?

I am really glad that we accidentally attended this event in Kutna Hora.  I will mark it in my calendar next year, so it will be one of those weekend events that we will go to.

More information about this event can be found here.

Vesely Kopec: An Open-air Museum

Perhaps one of the best attractions in Vysocina, the Czech highlands, is “Vesely Kopec ” (Merry Hill).  Vesely Kopec features a collection of folklore buildings, arts and crafts in an open-air setting.

Entrance to the museum

Once you are inside the museum, it gives you a feel of being transported back in time when people lived simply with ancient tools.  It is even more amazing to note the craft they had created through it.

A typical folk cottage

Here’s a peek into one of the cottages.  Isn’t it amazing how people used to survive in such small space?  One room serves everything:  eating, sleeping, socializing.

Interior of the cottage

But the view outside seems to make up for what’s lacking in the inside.

The museum features a mill, a barn, a weaving area and a flax and fruit dryer to name a few.

The equipment used for weaving.

This cabinet is an ancient fruit dryer.

One of the volunteers doing some restorations.  Yes, it is restored the same way it was built.

Vesely Kopec is the only architectural folklore exposition in Eastern Bohemia.

So if you are ever in the Czech Republic and decide to go beyond Prague to explore the countryside, this is one spot worth checking out.

More information about Vesely Kopec can be found here.

Kouřim: Remnants of an “It” Town

Kouřim is a historical city located 45kms east of Prague.  During the 13th to the 16th century, it used to be one of the most important cities in Bohemia.    The first 300 years of existence of Kouřim as a city experienced bloom and prosperity that was seriously untouched even by the Hussite wars. In 1421, it surrendered without a fight to the approaching troops to remain spared. The end of the Hussite wars and the subsequent secularization of church property brought a huge economic boost to the city.  At the turn of the 15th and 16th century, Kouřim stood in the zenith of power and wealth.

The first harbinger of the end of the “golden age” of the city was the year 1547, when Kouřim actively participated in the rebellion against the Emperor Ferdinand I of Habsburg.  But that was suppressed and the town suffered severe punishment in the form of economic sanctions, especially the confiscation of almost all of its landed property. Horrible disasters followed including the Thirty Years War where the city was repeatedly looted by passing troops. Although in 1648 the Peace of Westphalia ends the greatest horrors, it is unfortunate that at the end of the 16th century, it was further  decimated by religious oppression, plague and a series of fires.

Today, Kouřim stands as a favorite destination for history lovers.

The Kourim town square

Relative to the size of the city, it has a pretty big town square.  In it is found the Statue of the Virgin Mary  which was built in 1850.

Also found in the square is a huge rock, called Prokopu Velikemu to commemorate the battle of Lipan.

(Rickard, J. (12 October 2000), Battle of Lipan, http://www.historyofwar.org/articles/battles_lipan.html)

But perhaps the biggest attraction in Kouřim is the Church of St. Stephen, which has a unique Romanesque Gothic style, and is one of the oldest churches in Europe, built sometime during the 13th century.

So if you are visiting the Czech Republic and would love to know more about its history, Kouřim is definitely a “must see” spot for you.

Sources:  Mesto Kouřim, Wikipedia

Palačinky Saves The Day

It was a little bit rainy today, so Jakub and I stayed indoors through most of the day.  Since it’s Thursday, and we normally do shopping on Fridays, the food supply in our household was quite depleted.  He already ate up his favorite snack.  Thus, supermama had to make something for this picky little eater.    I checked out the cupboard to see what I have and was lucky to find that I had flour, milk and eggs –  the main ingredients for palačinky.

my palacinky

Out of all the Czech foods I’ve ever tried to make, palačinky is my favorite.  Not only is it very easy to make but it is also very flexible.  Palačinky is a thin pancake very similar to French crepes.  It is very popular in Czech and almost every housewife knows how to make it.    Palačinky is normally eaten with jam/jelly as a filling.  It can also be made fancier with whipped cream on the side and chocolate syrup drizzled all over it.  It can even be made as a main course when it is stuffed with meat and veggies.  But the best palačinky variation I’ve ever seen was at my in-law’s house where it was made as a birthday cake.  I thought that was pretty innovative.

Birthday cake made out of palacinky

It was very simple yet delish.  I would never have thought to make it for that purpose.

So, to appreciate this awesome food even more, I am sharing here my Palačinky recipe:

Ingredients:

2 eggs

200g flour

400ml milk

pinch of salt

Procedure:  Mix all the ingredients together.  Pre-heat a cooking pan. Add a little bit of oil to prevent the dough from sticking to the pan.   (If you are using a non-stick pan, there is no need to add oil.)  Take 4-5 tablespoons of the mixture and spread evenly on the pan.  Turn when the sides turn brown.

Yield: 10-15

Whatever the occasion, whether it is a simple afternoon snack, a main course or a party, rest assured that palačinky will always save the day.